Backyard Ponderings
Backyard Ponderings...
Check out the latest pond & water garden blog entries from Backyard Getaway. If you like something or have a question please leave a comment!

Backyard Ponderings

Reminder: winter pond care tips

by Lisa Burns on 01/27/12

Here are some winter pond care tips to keep your Koi & pond healthy.

If you have not done so by now you should clean your pond. Remove 50% of water, the decaying leaves & fish waste.

Switch to a wheat germ food once water temperature reaches 60 degrees. Stop feeding altogether when water temperature reaches 50 degrees.

In the south, add submerged plants to give the fish a place to graze and replace cool sensitive plants with cool weather plants and continue to add beneficial bacteria. In the north remove your plants and over-winter in your garage or basement.

Remove fallen leaves from the pond as soon as possible. If you have a large tree over your pond, cover the pond with a leaf net.

In the south, perform pump maintenance. In the north, remove equipment you are not using like UV clarifiers.

Continue to clean your filters or back flush your systems as usual. You may not have to do this as often. Check your skimmer leaf net more frequently.

Test your pond as usual keeping an eye on the pH. The pH can drop with out notice especially in colder weather. If the pH drops below 7.0 do a partial water change & raise the pH.

Northern ponds should keep a hole in the ice using an aerator or "pond deicer" to help remove the build up of gases & provide needed oxygen. Also, drain water from exterior piping & autofill to eliminate cracking or breaking of the pipes & check water levels especially if you leave the waterfalls running during the winter. add water & dechlorinator as needed

If you have turtles or tropical fish in your pond, you should add a submersible heater or move them inside until spring.

In the south, add lights to your pond so you can enjoy your pond in the evening. Get out your fire pit, light a fire, sit back & enjoy your pond in the cooler weather!

Frost Damage in a southern garden and what to do.

by Lisa Burns on 01/27/12

Surviving frost damage in the southern garden

 

It's official, while the rest of the country has been suffering with cold weather for weeks, winter has finally arrived here in sunny Florida. The weatherman tells us there is a cold front on the way with temperatures dipping into the low 30's. The first thing I thought of when I heard the forecast was I had better start covering my landscape plants and bringing in the potted ones.

 

Chances are, if you cover your plants as I do, you will notice that some of your plants will still sustain damage. There is no getting around, it especially if the air temperature reaches below 28 degrees. Another factor is how the plants are covered. If you lay a blanket or tarp over the entire plant and the cover is directly, touching the plant there will still be damage. It is also important to remove the cover during the day so the plant can warm up. Like most of you, I am to busy to cover and uncover 100 plants everyday during the cold snaps, so, my plants remained covered.

 

Some plants tolerate frost and cooler temperatures better than others do. The age and general health of the plant will play a factor in whether or not your plants will survive. Popular plants that usually are killed or damaged by frost include annuals, Impatiens, Marigolds, Coleus & some sub-tropical like Hibiscus, Citrus & Bougainvillea. However, do not give up too quickly. Any plant that is still alive will attempt to recover. Many of your perennial plants like Salvia & Begonias will die back but the roots can survive the winter only to re-sprout in the spring. The same applies for bulb plants like Day Lilies & Iris. Even if a plant has lost all of its woody parts, it can re-grow from the root or stem tissue. If you did not think to cover your plants in time or you have frost damage here are some tips to helping your plants survive.

 

Resist the urge… to prune that is!

With a yard full of damaged, dead looking plants the gardener’s first instinct is to prune. Don’t do it! The damaged leafs can work as an insulator for further damage and will serve as a starting point for new growth in the spring. In fact, heavy pruning can stimulate new growth that could be damaged again if, heaven forbid, we get another cold snap.

 

Hydration is key but no feeding please!

Keep your plants well watered. This may be the most important factor in saving your damaged plants. Windy days will dry up the soil and the frost on the leaf will actually pull water from the leaf causing dehydration. Water your plants but do not fertilize them until spring once they have resumed active growth.

 

What about my pond plants?

The same rules apply for your pond plants, no pruning or fertilizing. They will actually have a better chance of survival because the water temperature is generally warmer than the air temperature and the plants will be hydrated from the pond water.

Come spring when the weather warms, look for new growth & start pruning. If a plant is truly dead, don’t be too upset. That just means you have an excuse to buy new plants for your garden.

 

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Lux magazine spotlight

by Lisa Burns on 01/27/12

Last month Backyard Getaway was featured in the Biz Spotlight on Lux Magazine. Lux is a premier online woman's magazine. I am contributing writer on Lux with a monthly gardening article. Below is the Backyard Getaway spotlight article:

Did you know that water gardening is the fastest growing segment in the garden industry? Why not give the gift of tranquility to someone special this year or treat yourself to a getaway in your own backyard. Backyard Getaway, a local water garden business, grew from a hobby into a passion. Over 15 yrs ago, Dave Burns caught the pond "bug" when he purchased his first pond kit. It didn't take long before he was digging a second larger Koi pond & helping friends & family create their own backyard retreats. His wife, Lisa, was quick to join him, growing native aquatic plants & Water lilies. They decided to make it official & Backyard Getaway was born.

 

Gifts for the pond lover on your list can range in price from a few dollars for a water thermometer, wheat germ based food, water treatments & pond netting to a few hundred dollars for a pond deicer, pond vacuum or a small pondless water feature. Other inexpensive items offered by Backyard Getaway for someone without a yard is a hand crafted tabletop fountain. All of these items and more are available on the website at www.backyardgetawaystore.com or visit www.backyardgetaway.net to learn more about Backyard Getaway's services.

Although professional installation and renovation is a major part of their business, Dave & Lisa point out that with a bit of research & some hard work you can create a beautiful water garden yourself. It is important to ask yourself a few basic questions before you decide to do-it-yourself or hire a professional. First, what style of water feature most appeals to you? Next, location is important. A front yard would be fine for a pondless feature but may not be the best choice for a Koi pond. What size water feature would you like & what is your budget? Keep in mind that at least 50% of all pond owners upgrade at least twice, creating larger features. Finally, is this something you want to tackle yourself or hire a professional to do?

No pond is maintenance free. A well-built pond with proper filtration, that is not overstocked or overfed may require 10-20 minutes of maintenance once a week, which still leaves you plenty of time for enjoying your pond. Backyard Getaway offers a monthly, quarterly & yearly pond maintenance service that includes a deep cleaning. Gift certificates are available for maintenance services if your loved one already has a pond.

When choosing a pond installation company it is important to look at their portfolio and to talk to their customers. If you are installing your pond yourself, talk to the experts. Whomever you purchase your equipment from should be able to answer your question concerning your new pond.

If you build it they will come!

by Lisa Burns on 11/04/11

Every fall we receive phone calls and emails from upset customers whom have lost fish to predators. We can sympathize and know first hand that terrible feeling they have when they realize their pond is now a sushi bar. Herons, Egrets and raccoons are the most popular culprits in our area but there are others to watch for too. Otters, opossums, foxes, bobcats (if you are in a rural area), snakes, snapping turtles and even large bullfrogs will eat your Koi and Goldfish.

 

I know what you are thinking, you have never seen a heron near your pond and most likely, you never will. They will wait until there is no movement near the pond to attack. Herons are extremely patient and once they find your pond they will return on a daily basis until they have picked off every fish. If your fish are disappearing but there are no signs of disruption, you have a Heron or Egret visiting your pond. These large birds will swoop in and take the fish with them, or if the fish is too large, they will leave it by the side of your pond. Remember in the fall the birds are migrating and the Koi are slowing down making them easier prey.

 

Raccoon damage is easier to detect. They love to make a mess. You will see muddy footprints around the pond, your plants will be torn up, pots knocked over or broken and rocks knocked into the pond. Most importantly you will find fish bones. Of course, raccoons are nocturnal so you most likely will not see them either. Otters and Snakes are a bit less noticeable and they have no problem feasting on your Koi even if you are home.

 

There are several options to help prevent fish lost.

  • Net the pond: This will work for birds, raccoons and even otters if the net is secure enough. Also helps to keep leaves out of the pond in the fall.
  • Install Koi caves: Caves will provide your Koi a feeling of security giving them a place to hide from predators and the summer sun.
  • Install decoys like floating alligator heads, mirrored balls. These inexpensive items may or may not work. Herons are not only patient but also smart if something is in the same spot every day like a fake heron or owl statue they will figure out that it is not going to harm them.
  • Install a scarecrow: No not the kind Dorothy runs into on the yellow brick road. The contech Scarecrow is a motion sensor device that connects to a garden hose and runs on a 9-volt battery. The scarecrow will cover 100sf of pond. It is important to make sure you test the battery regularly. You may want to replace it every month to be safe. This is my personal favorite. We have not had any fish loss in our ponds since installing our scarecrows eight years ago! I have been told that Otters are not deterred by this and if fact enjoy playing with the blast of water.
  • Electric Fencing: Low voltage electric fencing works great to keep raccoons and other small critters out of the pond. It is not pretty but effective.

For those of you who are considering creating a pond or water garden have no fear there are ways to prevent fish loss and raccoon damage before you dig your pond. Sloping edges may look the most natural but it is also an invitation for small animals to enter your pond. When building a pond for Koi be sure the sides are straight and drop two feet or more. You can still have plant shelves installed on the pond edges with rocks on the edges to keep the Koi off the shelves and a steep drop from the shelves into the pond to keep the raccoons out.

Backyard Getaway Receives 2011 Business/Education Partnership Award

by Lisa Burns on 09/19/11

Backyard Getaway is excited to announce we received the Manatee Chamber of Commerce's 2011 Business/Education partnership award for our donated water feature project at Haile middle school this past April. We were nominated in 4 categories along with 150 other local businesses. Twelve local businesses & educators were chosen to receive awards.

We look forward to future business/education partnerships and hope to eventually see a water feature at every Manatee county school!

 

Versatile plants from your water garden to your landscape

by Lisa Burns on 09/19/11

Did you know that some of the most common water garden plants can be planted in your landscape and some of your favorite garden plants can be added to your water garden?

Here are some of my favorites that I use in both:

  • Papyrus (Cyperus): This is one of the easiest plants to grow in a water garden & is usually the first plant a pond installer will put in your pond. It is a beautiful tall plant that makes a nice backdrop for a tropical garden. Papyrus can be a bit over powering in a pond, especially the Umbrella and Egyptian varieties. Papyrus spreads quickly so you will need to keep an eye on it.
  • Taro (Colocasia) or Elephant ear is another large plant with many varieties. Both Colocasia & Alocasia will do well in the ground or in the water. The key is to keep them in very shallow water.
  • Mexican Petunia (Ruellia brittoniana) I use this in my garden as a hedge and as a bog plant in my pond. They will spread quickly too.
  • Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) has a beautiful red flower on top of a reddish green stalk.A nice touch of color for your pond or garden, they will die back in cooler weather but come back easily the next season.
  • Iris: There are over 260 species of Iris; many are true aquatic plants while others can be used in both situations like the blue flag. Yellow flag Iris are often used in natural ponds for water purification. They are very aggressive growers and can grow to 6' tall so be careful in your water garden.
  • Canna is one of my favorites with large broad leaves & bright yellow, orange, red and even striped flowers. Bengal tiger (striped flower), Endeavor and flaccida work wonderfully in both the garden & water garden.
  • Society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) a low bunching plant with lovely lavender flowers. Also helps to repel biting bugs in your garden.
  • Butterfly ginger (Hydychium coronatium) is a tall plant with large white flowers that smell like ginger. They do well in full and part sun and are a wonderful addition to your butterfly garden.
  • Hibiscus has many varieties that will work equally well in the garden and pond. The marsh mallow has large pink flowers and loves moist soil.
  • Horsetail (Equisetum hyemale) is one of my favorites. Tall black banded green stalks that resemble a small bamboo. This is an aggressive spreader too & is best kept in a pot but can also be used as a hedge or border.
  • Crinum (Crinum sp) grows from a bulb is also known as bog lily, spider lily or swamp lily. They do well in the garden but should be kept moist. They will not do well in colder climates.
  • Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana) is a fun plant. It is called obedient plant because you can move each flower on its stalk to whichever direction you like & it will stay.
  • Chameleon plant (houttuynia cordata) lovely low plant with color changing leaves. As the weather cools, the leaves turn a dark maroon-purple. This is a nice plant for a container garden.
  • Calla Lily (Zantedeschia) is a tender plant that is hardy to zone 6. I like the spotted leaf variety with white flower for my water garden and have them in a pot in my kitchen window.

Creating a Wildlife Habitat

by Lisa Burns on 08/19/11

Repost from the National Wildlife Federation

Whether you have an apartment balcony or a 20-acre farm, you can create a garden that attracts beautiful wildlife and helps restore habitat in commercial and residential areas. By providing food, water, cover and a place for wildlife to raise their young--and by incorporating sustainable gardening practices--you not only help wildlife, but you also qualify to become an official certified wildlife habitat.

 

Why should I create a NWF certified wildlife habitat?

  • It's fun! Watching wildlife in action can be fun and relaxing for everyone. Your habitat may attract beautiful songbirds, butterflies, frogs and other interesting wildlife for observing.
  • Curb appeal! Replacing grass lawns with native wildflowers, shrubs, trees and water features will increase the beauty of the property & provide a natural refuge for wildlife.
  • Bring wildlife home! Restoring habitats where commercial and residential development have degraded natural ecosystems can be your way of giving back to wildlife.
  • Eco-friendly! Gardening practices that help wildlife, like reducing the use of chemicals, conserving energy and water and composting also help to improve air, water and soil quality.
  • Community! Gardening for wildlife can help you share your love of wildlife with others.

What you need to be a Certified Wildlife Habitat:

 

  1. Provide Food Sources: Everyone needs to eat, plant native plants & trees to provide nectar, pollen, berries & seeds.
  2. Provide Water Source: Wildlife need sources of clean water for drinking, bathing & reproduction.
  3. Provide Cover & places to raise young: Wildlife need a place to hide to feel safe from people, predators & bad weather.
  4. Sustainable Gardening to Conserve Water: Add mulch, reduce lawn areas, use rain barrels & remove invasive plants to help conserve water.
  5. Certify your habitat! Visit the National Wildlife Federation Today!

Rain Gardens for Florida Gardens

by Lisa Burns on 08/19/11

Summer in Florida means daily afternoon showers. If you have a low spot in your yard where water collects after a good rain it would make the perfect spot for a rain garden. What is a rain garden? A rain garden is a low-lying area that you plant with native plants that allows rainwater runoff from nearby roofs, driveways, lawns and walkways to soak into the ground instead of flowing into a storm drain or creating puddles in your driveway. The area should range from 4 to 12 inches lower than the rest of your yard. Rain is diverted from your roof gutters or paved areas to the garden.

 

Your rain garden should contain Native or Florida friendly plants. You can vary your selection of plants to include wetland type plants ranging from wildflowers, sedges, rushes, ferns, shrubs and even small trees. Florida native plants are best because they are tolerant of the Florida heat, soil and water conditions and will attract native birds and other wildlife. The plants in your rain garden will act as sponges taking up the excess water that flows into your garden and will filter the water that returns to the groundwater system through their roots. By doing this, rain gardens help reduce the amount of pollution reaching streams and other bodies of water by up to 30 percent improving the quality of the bodies of water.

 

Even though a rain garden may seldom need watering and never need fertilizing, you may still need to weed and mulch your garden. Eventually the mature plants will push out the weeds. Rain gardens are inexpensive to create, easy to maintain and help give back to the environment by conserving water, attracting birds and filtering pollutants.

 

Another option to remove standing water is to install a French drain. You will need to plan where to route the water starting at the point where water is puddling. It is best to follow a natural slope but you can create your own slope. Where the drain ends is also important. You want to make sure it will not damage your property. An option would be to have it end in a rain havesting system. The French drain trench should be between 6 to 12 inches wide and 12 inches deep. The bottom of the trench should be lined with gravel about 3 inches deep and covered with landscape fabric. A drainage pipe may be placed in the hole and covered with gravel until the trench is full or simply fill trench with gravel. You can leave the gravel exposed alternating with larger rocks and boulders, giving the appearance of a dry stream.

 

Here are a few informative sites for more info on rain gardening:

http://www.raingardennetwork.com/about.htm

 

http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/FFL/index.shtml

http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/FFL/documents/Rain%20Garden%20Manual%20_%20November%202010.pdf

 

What is Rain water harvesting?

by Lisa Burns on 07/14/11

Rainwater harvesting is simply, the collecting and storing, of rainwater for reuse, before it reaches the  aquifer. The easiest way to collect water is in a rain barrel  that is connected to a downspout from your roof's gutter. This type of storage system is above ground and is gravity fed with a spigot at the bottom of the barrel that connects a water hose that you can use to water your garden, top off your pond, wash your car with or supply drinking water to your livestock. Of course, if you have a large garden you wish to irrigate using harvested rainwater you may want something larger than one or two rain barrels. Why not create a storage system that would also add beauty to your yard.

The concept is the same; you collect rain from the gutter downspout just as you would for your rain barrel. Water is then routed into an underground cistern you created by using liner, pump vault and eco-blox. Now for the best part, a layer of permeable pavers or a pond-free water feature covers your underground cistern, creating a usable space in your yard. Using 45mil EPDM liner as your base allows you to make your cistern as large as you need. Eco-blox are important components in your cistern. They are produced by Atlantic Water Gardens to help hold as much water as possible in your cistern while making it strong enough to hold the pavers or rock for the water feature. A submersed pump draws the water from the cistern to your garden when needed.

There are a couple of things to consider when creating a cistern. If you wish to use your stored water to top off your fish pond or supply drinking water for livestock, you will want the water to be clean. After a dry spell, the first water from your roof will contain pollutants that must flush to waste. You can also add a filter to your downspout to help remove these pollutants. Waste, dirt and debris are removed from your rainwater using the Atlantic Water Gardens Clean Rain Ultra. Mosquitoes may be another concern. Add Biological mosquito control from Microbe-Lift to keep mosquitoes from breeding. Microbe-Lift is safe for fish and animals. Rain harvesting is just one example of how you can conserve water and give back to the environment while making your private space a bit more enjoyable.

Home Remedies for your pond

by Lisa Burns on 06/14/11

If you have Koi in your pond, it is a good idea to keep a pond first aid kit handy. Our kit includes dechlorinator, pond test kit, beneficial bacteria, medicated food, liquid Band-Aid, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal medications and a few household items that help with some of the most common pond ailments.

Below is a list of household items that you should include in your first aid kit:

  • Hydrogen Peroxide: If your fish are gasping at the surface, you may have low dissolved oxygen levels. To raise levels quickly add 1/2 to 1 cup per 100 gallons of water or using a spray bottle, add about 60 squirts per 100 gallons under the water away from the fish. This will buy you a few hours to fix the situation. If you have power, adding air stones will also help raise oxygen levels. As always, test the water before adding any treatment to your pond to rule out ammonia levels or other issues.
  • Baking Soda: used in case of a pH crash. Add about 1tsp to 10 gallons of water to raise pH to 7.5. Always test your pond to see what your pH level is and raise slowly. Do not just dump the entire box of baking soda in the pond
  • Crushed Oyster shell: ok, this one might not be something you have laying around the house but it is readily available at any feed store. If you are having a difficult time keeping your pH at the proper level you need to add a buffer. First raise or lower your pH to 7.2-7.5 then add a net bag of crushed oyster shell in the pond under the waterfall. This will keep your pH at the proper level. You will need to change bag every few weeks.
  • Plaster of Paris: pH Pucks. This is also used to buffer the pH level. Create a pH puck by mixing the plaster of paris as directed on the box. Pour into small pie tins and let dry for a few days until chalky. Add to your pond one 9 inch puck will buffer up to 1000 gallons for about two weeks. We always keep a few of these on hand just in case.
  • Solar Salt: This is a preventative treatment. Use 1 cup of solar salt (not table salt) per 100 gallons of water. This will bring the salt to about .1ppm, at this level it will help keep parasites from attaching to your Koi, heal wounds and keep them from up taking ammonia in through their gills. When Koi are stressed they lose their protective slime coat, the salt will also help produce the slime coat. It can also be used as a treatment for parasites at a dosage of .3ppm. It is best to remove sick fish and treat in a hospital tank at that level so not to kill the plants in your pond.
  • Water: This is the most readily available household item on the list and can do wonders for lowering ammonia and nitrite levels in the pond. If your fish are acting unusual, gasping at the surface or hanging at the bottom, a quick 25 % water change will usually perk them up. Remember to clean the filters regularly and to add dechlorinator when adding fresh water from the tap.

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